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Photo from Precious Women’s Perfumes
The Macy’s at the mall my friends take me to doesn’t have much of a selection. They do, however, have Chanel No. 5 in all versions: the eau de toilette, the eau de parfum, Eau Premiere, and even the parfum, which is prominently displayed on Christmas. I always thought they smelled different, but I didn’t realize this was intentional until I bought The Book (Perfumes by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez).
The eau de toilette, which I figured was the original, is big, beautiful, and feminine, but I strongly prefer Joy. I haven’t smelled the parfum, but since it’s almost unanimously acclaimed as one of the greatest perfumes of all time I bet that once I do I’ll probably elevate it to Joy’s level on my hierarchy. The eau de parfum was made in the 1980s as a modern update on Chanel No. 5, like Eau Premiere was not too long ago. Both were made by Chanel in-house perfumer Jacques Polge, and seem to emphasize different versions of the original. Eau Premiere is the lighter, girlier one, and the EDP is the clubbier one.
It opens with a bunch of powdery aldehydes, but those are overshadowed by the floral bouquet and a massive peach note that you get the sense is trying to push all the other notes out of the way with all of its might. That isn’t a bad thing. I love ’80s perfumery, and No. 5 EDP employs the same attention-getting tactics as Poison and the rest of its contemporaries. I agree with everything The Book says about the EDP, including that it has the same artificial sandalwood note as Samsara. What I don’t agree with is that it detracts from the fragrance at all. I haven’t reviewed Samsara yet because its use of Polysantol gives me a headache; but No. 5 EDP is more tactful with it, and it’s a welcome addition which fits perfectly with the other notes and the general feel of the fragrance.
Chanel No. 5 EDP is not a monument of perfume greatness like the original. But then again, neither is Eau Premiere. That doesn’t mean that they can’t be enjoyed in themselves. If anything, I think each component of the Chanel No. 5 line should be used by perfume historians as a representative of its times: the parfum is from the ’20s and is a massive floral; the ’50s eau de toilette is ladylike and quieter; the ’80s EDP stomps and swivels like Pete Burns; and Eau Premiere is modern and clean.
Perfumer: Jacques Polge
Price Range: Moderately Expensive
Recommended Occasion: Any
Release Year: 1986
My Rating: 7.5
Bois de Jasmin has a similar opinion of this one.
